Before the arrival of silver and metalworking techniques, Native American jewelry was made from natural materials that were locally available and had deep cultural and spiritual significance. Beads made from turquoise, shells, bones, teeth, and stones were commonly used to create necklaces, bracelets, and earrings.

Highly valued across many tribes, turquoise was a central element in early Native American jewelry. Its vibrant blue-green color was not only beautiful but believed to carry spiritual powers, offering protection and healing. Turquoise beads have been found in archaeological sites dating back over 2,300 years in the Hohokam culture, a prehistoric people who inhabited parts of modern-day Arizona. The Hohokam are among the earliest known users of turquoise for jewelry and other adornments.

Shells (such as conch, abalone, and turban shells) were another important material, especially for Southwestern tribes who had access to the Pacific coast through trade networks. The Pueblo and other desert tribes used shells for beads and ornaments, and feathers were often incorporated into necklaces, headpieces, and regalia as symbols of power and spiritual significance. Bone, stone, wood, and even plant fibers were also used to create intricate designs.

By the time of the Spanish arrival in the 16th century, turquoise had already become highly valued for its beauty and spiritual significance. It was used in jewelry, amulets, and other adornments, often to symbolize protection, healing, and connection to the earth and sky.

Metal was rare in ancient Native American cultures, but not entirely unknown. Some archaeologists suggest that certain tribes in North America may have worked with gold and silver during this early period, though their use would have been limited. The peoples of Mexico and Central America, such as the Aztecs, had been working with gold and silver long before European contact, so it's possible that Native American tribes in the Southwest were exposed to metalworking techniques or had some awareness of metals prior to the arrival of the Spanish.

With that being said, the art of silver working among Native American communities in North America, especially the Navajo, was largely influenced through contact with Mexican silversmiths and Spanish colonizers in the mid-1800s. The Spanish are credited with making silver more redibly available in the region, as well as tools and techniques for working with the metal.

It is important to note that while the Spanish colonizers brought silver to the region, the Mexican influence was key in the transmission of silversmithing skills. According to oral tradition, the Navajo learned how to work with silver primarily from Mexican silversmiths who either lived in or passed through the Southwest and who were already using European-style tools and techniques. They taught the Navajo how to melt down silver coins, cast and shape metal, and create decorative designs.

One of the earliest known stories of Navajo silversmithing involves Navajo man named Atsidi Sani, who is often credited as the first Navajo silversmith. Legend holds that he learned the craft from Mexican or Pueblo artisans. In some versions of the story, Atsidi Sani learned silversmithing by observing Mexican workers or having a silversmith from Mexico teach him directly. He began crafting silver jewelry for trade, and his work was highly prized. Over time, the craft spread through the Navajo Nation.

While the Navajo were the first to adapt silverworking on a wide scale, other tribes, including the Zuni and the Hopi, also began to incorporate silver into their jewelry by the late 19th century.
* The Zuni, known for their intricate inlay work, are particularly famous for their turquoise inlay techniques. Some Zuni artisans learned silversmithing from Navajo or Mexican sources, while others developed their unique styles of working with both turquoise and silver.
* The Hopi, known for their detailed and symbolic overlay silver designs, also developed their unique traditions of silversmithing, often influenced by Navajo or Mexican styles but maintaining distinctive aesthetic principles.

Over time, silversmithing became not just a craft but a way for Native American artists to express and preserve their cultural heritage. In the context of this period, the introduction of metalworking was a cultural adaptation rather than a wholesale change, as Native artists took elements of their traditional designs and incorporated silver in new ways. It wasn’t long before this new craft was a significant part of createing ornaments, tools, and items for trade.

After the introduction of silver and the development of silversmithing techniques, Native American silversmiths began integrating turquoise into their designs. The use of turquoise was already a long-standing tradition among Native American cultures in the Southwest, and turquoise stones were often associated with spiritual and healing properties. By the early 20th century, the use of silver combined with turquoise became a hallmark of Southwestern Native American jewelry. This distinctive and highly sought-after form of jewelry became not just a form of artistic expression but also a significant part of their economic and cultural identity.

The introduction of silver to Native Americans opened up new economic opportunities. While traditional forms of trade (like textiles, livestock, and agricultural goods) remained important, the development of silver jewelry allowed Native artisans to trade with non-Native settlers, soldiers, and traders who came to the Southwest during and after the U.S. expansion.

The period during World War II was a particularly difficult time for Native American artisans, especially for those on reservations. The economic struggles of the era, combined with a scarcity of materials like turquoise, led to some innovative adaptations in the jewelry-making process. During World War II, turquoise became both scarce and expensive due to wartime shortages and increased demand. As a result, many Native American jewelers, especially in the Navajo and other Southwestern tribes, turned to petrified wood as a substitute for turquoise in their jewelry. Petrified wood, which is abundant on reservations, was not as colorful as turquoise but still held symbolic importance. It was polished and shaped into beads, pendants, and other jewelry pieces. Though the process was labor-intensive, the results were striking and unique.

The process of shaping and polishing these stones was rudimentary compared to modern methods. Without electricity, jewelers used hammers to flake off pieces of petrified wood and then ground the stone using a hand-cranked grinding wheel. Polishing was done by rubbing the stone on buckskin, using wood-ash grit, and even rubbing the stone against pants using natural oils to give it a sheen. These methods, though simple by today’s standards, reflect the ingenuity and resilience of the artisans during a difficult time.

Today, Native American jewelry is not only celebrated for its craftsmanship but also for its ability to transcend time. It remains not only an important part of Native American art and cultural pride but also a significant economic resource for many Native artists and communities.

For generations, jewelry-making has been passed down through families, with many contemporary artists coming from long lines of skilled craftsmen and women. These artisans often learn their craft from parents, grandparents, and elders, preserving and evolving the traditional methods that have been practiced for centuries. This tradition of passing down knowledge has ensured that the art of Native American Jewelry will continue to thrive for future generations, preserving and evolving the traditional methods that have been practiced for centuries.